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empty property in cold weather.


chickpea

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Obviously our rental property is now empty and temperatures here have fallen.

What's the minimum we should be doing with regards heating - temperature and time period?

Is it better to leave it on constantly at a lower temperature, or set it to come on for several hours at night (ie the coldest part of the day)?

Is there anything else we should do?

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If it's going to be empty for a long time, it is worth draining the heating system (remember to replace your inhibitor when you refill), water pipes and tanks. Sustained periods of -6 degC are reckoned to be where real problems start, but I wouldn't rely on it.

Background heat is espensive, but has to be offset against potential damage. It is also a good idea to remember your loft space. If it is as well insulated as the government reccomendations, it is worth considering leaving the loft hatch open if you have tanks and piepwork up there. Put some chicken wire over the hatch if there is any chance of birds coming into the house, even finer mesh if you have a problem with mice.

We have a property which has been empty for most of the time over the past two winters (we are rennovating it for our own use), I have set the time switch to come on for an hour at 11pm and again 6am, I reckon these to be the coldest periods. The radiators are turned down to a low setting, all have RTVs fitted, so far fingers crossed no problems. You must check your boiler regularly though if you do this, ours has been known to lock out on occasions. One of the benefits of this, is with an old house it can take days to warm up if left with no heat for a long time. Ous takes around 3 days before you start to fell warm in it again.

Dave

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Thanks for both replies.

It's only been empty for a week. We went in on Sunday and set the heating to come on for 2 hours at 9pm, at 14 degrees, with the radiators set to medium. (the weather here in S Wales has only really got cold in the last 48 hours, with very light snow yesterday).

The loft is converted, with no hatch cover. I'm not sure what the insulation is like up there - I'll look today.

Luckily, the property is only 3 miles from us, so we can pop in on a regualr basis to keep an eye on things.

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Advice for gas/ radiator central heating is going to be completely different to electric storage heaters.

I dispair at some of the general advice given by people who should really know better.

1. With electric storage heaters.....that usually have little or no timer controls....they should be set on a low setting.

2. Gas central heating which has a central thermostat and radiator in all rooms should be left on permanantly and set at 5 deg C minimum

3. In both cases....windows shut, vents shut, curtains/blinds drawn where possible and all interior doors .....especially the ones housing water tanks should be opened.

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"I dispair at some of the general advice given by people who should really know better."

Bit strong, what is it that you have a problem with?

Dave

My comments were not directed at anyone in particular on this forum, they were a criticism of advice generally......and which is frequently given incorrectly.

Although, the following is not good advice in my opinion and I certainly wouldn't recommend having heatiing on for just X2 one hour periods. Having no heating on for what equates to 16 hours is a recipe for disaster.

I have set the time switch to come on for an hour at 11pm and again 6am, I reckon these to be the coldest periods. The radiators are turned down to a low setting, all have RTVs fitted, so far fingers crossed no problems.

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90% + of all thermostats & TRV's have a frost setting.......personally I tend to think that setting is to low and prefer to set a little higher.......the cost is negligable compared to the cost of a burst pipe.

But each to is /her own.

Anyone need to borrow my mop, bucket or water pump ? B)

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Leave the heating set to low 24/7 so much better than burst pipes but if you ignore this advice that's fine by me 'cos as a Plumbing & Heating company my Son has the opportunity to earn extra money sorting out floods and burst pipes. :D

The biggest problem we use to find and still do, is the totally inadequate pipe insulation in the roof space normally consisting of inferior thin wall foam type pipe wrap or "horsehair felt."

Homeowners will insulate their lofts to the max. to avoid heat loss and totally ignore water pipes and water tanks if fitted in the roof space.

If there is a "big freeze" and I mean -5 degrees and lower there will burst pipes and do not forget those loft spaces with free air circulation you can add a wind chill factor in as well.

Mel.

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3rd time lucky, maybe.

Insurance, may vary, but generally specify a min temp of 12 degrees to maintain cover. Perhaps they are considering cold lofts and rising heat but this seems OTT.

I prefer the frost stat, sited intelligently set at 10 degrees. The limited time it will fire up the boiler won't cost much. As long as it overrides the time clock and the power is on (and pressure up) it just gets on with it. This takes care of situations where T's are away and shut things down.

Check the boiler spec 1st as many are manufactured with frost protection these days.

A TRV has a frost settting, using the peg will prevent total closure. It stays open till up to set temp so is good enough.

If just plain valves leave 'em open a little, if the water flows it 'aint freezing.

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From experience, some suggestions:

1) Check daily if nearby, and/or leave set of keys and stop cock details with neighbour and ask to check daily according to weather conditions.

2) Set heating on continuously with main room stat around 10deg to allow for coldest spots, rad TRVs open.

3) Leave Internal doors open to circulate air.

4) Leave loft trap open if any cold water pipes in loft and/or put(special purpose)heater on minimum setting near loft pipes.

5) Ensure cold storage tank tops protected and insulated from drafts. (NB. Mel's advice on lofts. Modern insulated and vented lofts can be very little over ambient)

6) Some plumbers advise to leave a downstairs tap dripping.....

7) Leave access to stop cock unlocked and clear in case of problems.

A 20mm split in a burst mains pipe can dump around 50 tonne of water in a couple of days. Ceilings have no chance.

Or get someone to occupy the house.....?

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